I arrived at the Marco Polo airport in Venice after 14 hours of traveling. That’s not bad for going nearly halfway around the world. Unfortunately my bike didn’t arrive with me. After giving up hope the bike would magically appear, I visited the (very busy) lost baggage office. I left the airport with a piece of paper and promise for a phone call when the bike was located. Eventually it was found in Paris with a promise to be delivered to the Venice airport “soon”. Five days later I am still believing the promise to deliver the bike. Meanwhile, and in spite of a missing bike, I’m having a great time in Italy.
I spent four days in Venice (Venezia) and found it to be like no other city I have ever visited. No cars, no bikes, just tiny twisting streets full of shoppers, restaurants, tourists and locals thrown together in about one square mile. Getting lost has never been so easy and fun.
It is a city built on a system of canals and crisscrossed by stylish and cleverly-designed bridges. The entire city is an obscure rat maze of alleys, walkways and narrow passageways filled with people walking purposefully as if they know where they are headed. A corner shop becomes an important navigational landmark and a small restaurant indicates the place to begin looking for that nearly-hidden alleyway that leads to a bridge that is the only connection to my hotel. I felt as though I were immerse into a work by M.C. Escher.
Everywhere I turned were gondoliers in their black and white-striped shirts and brimmed hats. Gondolas, small boats and water taxis bobbed up and down every canal, expertly navigated. I watched them ducking into parking spots, darting down narrow canals and pulling into semi-submerged garages. It is a city built exclusively for boats and people born with organic GPS navigation systems.
I was lucky to stay in a wonderful B+B near San Paulo square surrounded by canals (of course), tiny restaurants, and shops selling handmade paper, hand painted Carnival masks, Murano glass, fabulous shoes, fashionable clothing and incredible bakeries. It would have been easy to become enamored by such treasures and spend my entire vacation budget in three days. Luckily I have limited suitcase space. Phew.
As far as tourist destinations go, Venice has achieved a balance of classy local culture, art and “bijoux” – trinkets and crap. A few choice places play the role of tourist magnets – the Rialto bridge, San Marco Square and high-priced gondola rides. As a result, it is easy to escape from the beaten tourist path. One afternoon as I was lost I was suddenly surrounded by third-graders escaping at the end of a school day. An empty street was instantly filled with screaming urchins and parents with strollers. As quickly as it filled, the street emptied as families dispersed to shop for dinner and head home. And not a car or bicycle to be seen.
The second day I took a vaporetto (boat) to the island of Murano. It was like walking into a treasure chest. This historic hub of artisan glass-making has more diversity, color, quality and artistry using glass as a medium than I ever could have imagined. From horrifyingly kitchy laughing glass pigs to embarrassingly gaudy chandeliers to exquisite sculptures and jewelry, you can buy nearly anything you could want- made in glass.
I am still hopeful that my bicycle will arrive. If not, Italy is still an amazing and exciting place to visit. With ATMs on every corner, excellent food and interesting wine, my expectations for the vacation of a lifetime will certainly be met – although I realize it’s necessary to change my expectations to reflect reality.
I spent four days in Venice (Venezia) and found it to be like no other city I have ever visited. No cars, no bikes, just tiny twisting streets full of shoppers, restaurants, tourists and locals thrown together in about one square mile. Getting lost has never been so easy and fun.
It is a city built on a system of canals and crisscrossed by stylish and cleverly-designed bridges. The entire city is an obscure rat maze of alleys, walkways and narrow passageways filled with people walking purposefully as if they know where they are headed. A corner shop becomes an important navigational landmark and a small restaurant indicates the place to begin looking for that nearly-hidden alleyway that leads to a bridge that is the only connection to my hotel. I felt as though I were immerse into a work by M.C. Escher.
Everywhere I turned were gondoliers in their black and white-striped shirts and brimmed hats. Gondolas, small boats and water taxis bobbed up and down every canal, expertly navigated. I watched them ducking into parking spots, darting down narrow canals and pulling into semi-submerged garages. It is a city built exclusively for boats and people born with organic GPS navigation systems.
I was lucky to stay in a wonderful B+B near San Paulo square surrounded by canals (of course), tiny restaurants, and shops selling handmade paper, hand painted Carnival masks, Murano glass, fabulous shoes, fashionable clothing and incredible bakeries. It would have been easy to become enamored by such treasures and spend my entire vacation budget in three days. Luckily I have limited suitcase space. Phew.
As far as tourist destinations go, Venice has achieved a balance of classy local culture, art and “bijoux” – trinkets and crap. A few choice places play the role of tourist magnets – the Rialto bridge, San Marco Square and high-priced gondola rides. As a result, it is easy to escape from the beaten tourist path. One afternoon as I was lost I was suddenly surrounded by third-graders escaping at the end of a school day. An empty street was instantly filled with screaming urchins and parents with strollers. As quickly as it filled, the street emptied as families dispersed to shop for dinner and head home. And not a car or bicycle to be seen.
The second day I took a vaporetto (boat) to the island of Murano. It was like walking into a treasure chest. This historic hub of artisan glass-making has more diversity, color, quality and artistry using glass as a medium than I ever could have imagined. From horrifyingly kitchy laughing glass pigs to embarrassingly gaudy chandeliers to exquisite sculptures and jewelry, you can buy nearly anything you could want- made in glass.
I am still hopeful that my bicycle will arrive. If not, Italy is still an amazing and exciting place to visit. With ATMs on every corner, excellent food and interesting wine, my expectations for the vacation of a lifetime will certainly be met – although I realize it’s necessary to change my expectations to reflect reality.
posted by Janet B | 12:05 PM
1 Comments:
Wow - I hope your bike arrives "soon" as you say, but I'm glad you are enjoying yourself regardless!
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